The Story of Lukang Incense: Shih Chin Yu

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The Art of "Lun Xiang Shan"

Because "incense" is so deeply intertwined with Chinese folk beliefs, it is easy to find incense shops over a century old in any historic town. Located next to the Lukang Mazu Temple parking lot, "Shih Chin Yu San Fang" is one of the oldest surviving handcrafted incense shops in Taiwan. From the first-generation Quanzhou immigrant, Shih Fa, to the current 7th-generation proprietor, Shih Chi-hsun, and now with 8th-generation Shih Yeh-chih preparing to take the baton, the story of this old shop continues amidst constant challenges and evolving puzzles.

Founded in 1756 (the 21st year of the Qianlong reign), Shih Chin Yu San Fang has a history of 252 years. Most Lukang residents are familiar with this legacy shop. What sets it apart is its insistence on ancestral spice formulas and manual techniques. Coupled with its proximity to the City God Temple, Mazu Temple, and others, the shop’s fragrant smoke has drifted for centuries, creating the "Lukang Incense" legend.

Origins of Incense

The legend begins at the source. Shih Chi-hsun explains that the prototype of "burning incense" supposedly dates back to the Buddha, Shakyamuni. During his sermons in sweltering heat, disciples often struggled to stay awake. To stay alert and mask the scent of sweat, a disciple hit upon the idea of burning strips of fragrant wood. This not only refreshed the spirit but also purified the air.

Chinese history offers another perspective. According to the Classic of History (Shangshu): "Supreme governance is like fragrance; it moves the gods." In ancient times, burning incense was a vital ritual for summoning deities. While wine or meat might be optional, incense was indispensable. Before the Qin and Han dynasties, "incense" referred to aromatic herbs like orchids and cinnamon. It wasn't until the reign of Emperor Wu of Jin (265–316 AD) that "exotic incense" was brought as tribute from foreign lands for dispelling evil, curing epidemics, and health preservation.

Secrets of Agarwood

"Incense can be classified by use, shape, and color into: stick, coil, cone, bead, and modern varieties like multi-colored or scented incense. The most common is the stick incense, also called 'pillar incense' due to its upright form," explains Shih Chi-hsun, who mastered the craft under his father, Shih Yi-han.

While standard sticks are 24–36 cm long, the shop has made massive versions. In 2004, for a local festival, they spent 1.5 months crafting a "super incense" 4 meters long and weighing 120kg, which burned for half a month.

The shop primarily uses Agarwood (Chen-xiang) and Sandalwood. Unlike sandalwood (which is natural wood), agarwood is a resinous accumulation formed within specific trees (like Aquilaria) after they are injured or infected. Taiwan does not produce agarwood; it is mostly imported from Vietnam and Cambodia.

The Denser, The Better

"Generally, the denser the agarwood, the more resin it contains and the higher its quality," Shih says as he drops a piece of pure ancestral agarwood into water. If it sinks, it is "Sinking Incense" (the highest grade); if it stays submerged but afloat, it is "Zhan Incense"; if it floats on the surface, it is "Yellow Ripe Incense."

However, Shih warns that appearance isn't everything. Factors like the tree's age and whether it was harvested while alive or dead affect the scent. "The best way to judge is to light it and let your nose decide."

The Secret Formula

"Grinding agarwood and sandalwood into powder and adding up to 20 ancestral ingredients—that is how you make the finest incense," Shih reveals. Pure agarwood has a faint scent; the key to a rich aroma lies in the "seasoning," much like a chef preparing a dish. Formulas may include musk, ambergris, or Chinese herbs like cloves, fennel, and rhubarb.

How do you find the perfect ratio? "Experience," the master replies simply. In a market flooded with low-quality "black-hearted incense" from overseas, Shih notes that natural incense is safe. His ancestors lived to 130, 93, and 70+ years, proving that natural incense is not only non-carcinogenic but may even promote longevity.

Natural is Best

Natural incense smells clean—never sour or pungent—and the smoke won't make your eyes water. If the ash burns your hand, it likely contains lime (added to increase weight and speed up burning). Inferior incense often contains synthetic fragrances and dyes that release carcinogens like benzene when burned. While cheap incense sells for $20 TWD a pack, premium agarwood can cost thousands—a 50-fold price difference.

The Art of "Lun Xiang Shan"

At the 2,600-ping factory, 8th-generation successor Shih Yeh-chih demonstrates the "Lun Xiang Shan" (fanning the incense) technique. He spreads a bundle of wet sticks into a fan shape and collapses them repeatedly in a tray of powder, ensuring an even coat.

"This is a 'weather-dependent' trade," Shih says. "You need the sun to dry the incense." Though machines now help with mixing and rolling, the final stages still require significant manual strength and wrist control. It is a dusty, physically demanding job that few young people are willing to do.

Revitalizing a "Sunset Industry"

At its peak, the factory employed eight masters and produced 30,000 catties a month. Today, output has dropped by 90% due to competition from cheap imports. To save the legacy, Shih Yeh-chih left his white-collar job three years ago.

He has modernized the business by introducing e-commerce, home delivery, and high-end retail channels. A 14-day debut at Shin Kong Mitsukoshi department store brought in $400,000 TWD, proving there is a market for quality. He is also shifting the perception of incense from "ritual only" to "lifestyle and aromatherapy."

"The next generation has brought new blood to this century-old shop," say his parents with satisfaction. Despite the generational gap in marketing ideas, the legend of Shih Chin Yu is poised to be written for another century.